Via Francigena Stage 5: Aulla to San Miniato

Aulla is located in the historical Lunigiana region which is divided between Tuscany and Liguria and whose name is derived from Luni, a Roman town which became the main urban centre for the northern Tuscan coast. Aulla lies in the shadow of the imposing 16th-century Fortress of Brunella and at the confluence of the Magra and Aulella rivers. It was a significant trade and pilgrimage centre and therefore an important place on the Via Francigena.

Although Aulla suffered from bombing during World War II the Church of San Capraiso is still standing and worth a visit as the priest here is an expert on the Via Francigena and you can also visit the little museum.

During your walk today you will cross over into Liguria and walk along the final slopes of the Apennine Mountains before catching your first sight of the Mediterranean Sea glistening in the distance. Reach the quaint medieval village of Bibola which is situated on a hill a few miles south of Aulla and visit the Church of St Bartholomew home to beautiful Ligurian mosaics.

Continue along the trail to the ruins of Brina Castle and then begin your descent into Sarzana, your final destination for today and a town that has ancient origins and was first mentioned in the 10th century.

Ascent/Descent: 588m/634m

Walk past the ancient Sarzanello Fortress, at one time a bishop’s residence and then continue along trails with views to the Apuane Alps to your left. You are now in the Carrara area which provided the white marble from which Michelangelo sculptured his David. The mountains in the distance have white peaks, a result of the white marble and it seems as though they are snow-capped. 

Ascent/Descent: 130m/140m

Please note that we recommended walking from Avenza to Massa, then taking a train from Massa to Pietrasanta. From Pietrasanta you can rejoin the route to Camaiore. We suggest this route option to enhance your experience along the way.

Today’s walk is undulating as the trail is situated on the hillsides overlooking terraced vineyards, rather than along the coast. You will walk along quiet roads and trails, past river and streams, over stone bridges and through plenty of hamlets and villages. After a short train ride from Massa to Petresanta you continue on through beautiful forested mountainsides to arrive in Camaiore, situated just inland from the Versilian coast. This town’s growth in the Middle Ages was due to its location along the Via Francigena.

If you would like to walk from Massa to Camaiore (total distance: 38km/23.5 mi) we suggest you get in touch to add an extra night to walk this section over 2 days to make it more manageable.

Today leave the foothills of the Apuane Alps behind and take trails through pretty agricultural lands, woods and alongside streams. Initially, you will be gradually walking uphill but then descend into a  valley which eventually leads you into Lucca. Walk through the Serchio River Park before arriving in the old town centre.

Lucca is without question one of the highlights of your walking tour and is renowned for its Renaissance walls that are still intact. They are incredibly wide in some places and are used as a pedestrian promenade. Lucca was founded by the Etruscans but also occupied by the Romans and the rectangular street plan is a reflection of their design. The Piazza San Michele occupies the site of the ancient Roman forum.

Ascent/Descent: 516m/526m

We advise spending some time in Lucca before setting off towards Altopascio as there is so much to see here and it is a delightful city to stroll around and explore. The Piazza San Michele is fringed by restaurants and cafés so this is a great place to stop for a cappuccino and soak in the atmosphere. Explore the wonderful Piazza Anfiteatro and Lucca’s major art museum, housed in the Villa Guinigi. Be sure to walk some or all of the city walls, which have a broad, tree-lined promenade.

This afternoon make your way along trails via the towns of Capannori and Porcari, both of which have pretty little churches. Your destination for the day is Altopascio which is known as the "town of bread", due to its bread-making traditions. Here you will find the Spedale, an infirmary which was in use during medieval times for pilgrims. There is an interesting church and bell tower in the centre of the town.

Please note that the majority of the walk today is along roads. Therefore if you prefer you can spend longer in Lucca and take a 15-minute train ride to Altopascio (payable locally).

Ascent/Descent: 20m/10m

Today you will walk along a short stretch of original medieval pavement before arriving at the Ponte a Cappiano, a fortified bridge built by Cosimo de’Medici in the 16th century. The pretty town of Fucecchio is located over the Arno River and once you have passed through (perhaps stopping for lunch in a local café) you will then head upwards into San Miniato, a medieval village set atop three small hills at the very centre of Tuscany. It occupies a strategic location, at the intersection of the Florence-Pisa and Lucca-Siena roads, hence its historical importance. During the Middle Ages, there was a constant flow of both friendly and hostile armies, traders and travellers from near and far.

Depending on your energy levels you can choose various distances for today's walk. Either start from your accommodation in Altopascio (29km), Galleno (22km), or Ponte a Cappiano (15km). Please let us know in advance if you would like to shorten this day.

Ascent/Descent: 260m/140m

After breakfast your walking holiday will come to an end. See the Travel & Transfers section for some useful details for your onward travel.